led light: THE INSIDE SCOOP Changes in store for Chandon's restaurant
Long known for its role in changing Napa Valley dining -- way before French Laundry garnered worldwide press -- the restaurant at Domaine Chandon (1 California Drive, Yountville) has gone through a handful of great chefs and a few facelifts.
In June 2004, San Francisco designer Michael Brennan redid the interior, and Ron Boyd had just become executive chef. Now, less than two years later, the restaurant will get a new look -- and name -- while Chris Manning is getting into his groove in the kitchen.
On June 1, the restaurant will become Etoile, meaning "star" in French. It's also the name of Domaine Chandon's signature sparkling wine. The interior will be redone by San Francisco's Puccini Group to create a more dramatic feel.
The wine bar will be converted into an intimate lounge, with comfortable couches, tree stumps for tables and a menu filled with dishes to share. During the day, Manning will offer picnic lunches and blankets for customers to take outside.
The main dining room will be recast in tones of mocha, ebony, dark olive and gold and new dramatic chandeliers will add a focal point.
The restaurant has always allowed chefs to flex a culinary muscle or two, as long as the food matched the wines. The menu has gone through dramatic changes, from California-French under the 20-year veteran Philippe Jeanty to an Asian-tinged California style with Ron Boyd, who left in September.
Manning, who was sous chef under Boyd, has created his own play on California style with flavors from the Mediterranean. He's serving dramatic combinations, such as Alaskan halibut with forbidden rice, chorizo, manila clams and saffron foam; and broiled Quilcene oysters with Serrano ham and shallot butter.
The restaurant will stay open during the remodel.
-- -- --
San Francisco's Castro district, being the nightspot area it is, can never have too many dining choices. As of June 1, there should be one more. The owners of the nightclub The Cafe, who wish to remain anonymous, are opening Crave (2367 Market St., near Castro) with executive chef Matthew DuTrumble and general manager Louis Caputo running the show.
The menu will be updated American comfort food, which seems to be a big hit in the area based on the lines at nearby Lime (2247 Market St., near 15th Street).
Look for dishes like caviar-topped potato chips, duck confit tostadas with a house-made hot sauce and baby back ribs with a smoky Seagram and 7Up barbecue sauce. Everything will be shared plates, and DuTrumble's idea is to create a cool space where people can start or end an evening, without breaking the bank or overfilling their stomachs. Dishes will cost $4-$12.
The vibe is geared to be very Castro, with an arty modular ceiling and onyx backlit bar with stainless steel wrapping. The two levels will include an upstairs lounge with ottomans, low tables and a DJ; and downstairs seating for 50 and a bar. The piece de resistance is the LED light system that changes the color and mood of the room. Then again, it might be the unisex bathroom.
Crave will be open nightly, and will serve until 3 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays.
-- -- --
Quick Bites: Joel Guillon is now the corporate chef for Left Bank restaurants. Guillon was cooking at the Argent Hotel (50 Third St., near Mission) for over 20 years, and started his new role about two weeks ago. He'll be updating the menus and looking to put standards into place throughout all five locations.
Shana Dilworth takes over as the new sommelier at Campton Place (340 Stockton St., near Post) today. Dilworth was most recently an assistant general manager and sommelier at Jardiniere (300 Grove St., at Franklin), and replaces John Ragan, who followed chef Daniel Humm to New York.
Patricia Donaghy-Taan is now pastry chef at Dry Creek Kitchen (317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg). She was at Equus (101 Fountain Grove Pkwy) in Santa Rosa before.
She started a couple of months ago and really has her menu in place with dishes like raspberry sponge mousse with pistachio anglaise.
E-mail comments to her at aberne@sfchronicle.com.
Amanda Berne
Wednesday, May 3, 2006
Long known for its role in changing Napa Valley dining -- way before French Laundry garnered worldwide press -- the restaurant at Domaine Chandon (1 California Drive, Yountville) has gone through a handful of great chefs and a few facelifts.
In June 2004, San Francisco designer Michael Brennan redid the interior, and Ron Boyd had just become executive chef. Now, less than two years later, the restaurant will get a new look -- and name -- while Chris Manning is getting into his groove in the kitchen.
On June 1, the restaurant will become Etoile, meaning "star" in French. It's also the name of Domaine Chandon's signature sparkling wine. The interior will be redone by San Francisco's Puccini Group to create a more dramatic feel.
The wine bar will be converted into an intimate lounge, with comfortable couches, tree stumps for tables and a menu filled with dishes to share. During the day, Manning will offer picnic lunches and blankets for customers to take outside.
The main dining room will be recast in tones of mocha, ebony, dark olive and gold and new dramatic chandeliers will add a focal point.
The restaurant has always allowed chefs to flex a culinary muscle or two, as long as the food matched the wines. The menu has gone through dramatic changes, from California-French under the 20-year veteran Philippe Jeanty to an Asian-tinged California style with Ron Boyd, who left in September.
Manning, who was sous chef under Boyd, has created his own play on California style with flavors from the Mediterranean. He's serving dramatic combinations, such as Alaskan halibut with forbidden rice, chorizo, manila clams and saffron foam; and broiled Quilcene oysters with Serrano ham and shallot butter.
The restaurant will stay open during the remodel.
-- -- --
San Francisco's Castro district, being the nightspot area it is, can never have too many dining choices. As of June 1, there should be one more. The owners of the nightclub The Cafe, who wish to remain anonymous, are opening Crave (2367 Market St., near Castro) with executive chef Matthew DuTrumble and general manager Louis Caputo running the show.
The menu will be updated American comfort food, which seems to be a big hit in the area based on the lines at nearby Lime (2247 Market St., near 15th Street).
Look for dishes like caviar-topped potato chips, duck confit tostadas with a house-made hot sauce and baby back ribs with a smoky Seagram and 7Up barbecue sauce. Everything will be shared plates, and DuTrumble's idea is to create a cool space where people can start or end an evening, without breaking the bank or overfilling their stomachs. Dishes will cost $4-$12.
The vibe is geared to be very Castro, with an arty modular ceiling and onyx backlit bar with stainless steel wrapping. The two levels will include an upstairs lounge with ottomans, low tables and a DJ; and downstairs seating for 50 and a bar. The piece de resistance is the LED light system that changes the color and mood of the room. Then again, it might be the unisex bathroom.
Crave will be open nightly, and will serve until 3 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays.
-- -- --
Quick Bites: Joel Guillon is now the corporate chef for Left Bank restaurants. Guillon was cooking at the Argent Hotel (50 Third St., near Mission) for over 20 years, and started his new role about two weeks ago. He'll be updating the menus and looking to put standards into place throughout all five locations.
Shana Dilworth takes over as the new sommelier at Campton Place (340 Stockton St., near Post) today. Dilworth was most recently an assistant general manager and sommelier at Jardiniere (300 Grove St., at Franklin), and replaces John Ragan, who followed chef Daniel Humm to New York.
Patricia Donaghy-Taan is now pastry chef at Dry Creek Kitchen (317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg). She was at Equus (101 Fountain Grove Pkwy) in Santa Rosa before.
She started a couple of months ago and really has her menu in place with dishes like raspberry sponge mousse with pistachio anglaise.
E-mail comments to her at aberne@sfchronicle.com.
Amanda Berne
Wednesday, May 3, 2006
